By Jennie Batchelor, Cora Kaplan
Ladies and fabric tradition includes twelve illustrated, interdisciplinary essays on gender and fabric tradition around the lengthy eighteenth century. Written through a global team of students operating within the fields of visible tradition, costume historical past and literary feedback, those essays aspect to the manifold ways that gender mediated and was once formed by way of the intake and creation of products (from garments and works of art to books) and elucidate the complicated, transferring relationships among fabric and social perform within the interval.
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Example text
The Revd Samuel Bishop, who wrote a series of verses to accompany gifts to his wife, narrates the moment of discovery when she receives into her hands the orange-bergamot snuffbox he has had made to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Bishop tells his wife that boxes ‘of modish make’ take ‘value from an artist’s name’, from the ‘curious hinge’ and ‘the costly rim’. He continues: An husband, as in duty bound, presents, what an admirer found: Pray start not when you lift the lid! A portrait in a snuff box hid: Aye marry, and myself alone Can boast th’ original my own .
On the contrary, there is visual and material evidence confirming its continual use. com - licensed to Universitetsbiblioteket i Tromsoe - PalgraveConnect - 2011-03-11 Cotton, Consumption and Domestic Economy 37 Barbara Burman and Jonathan White The dresses in the Snowshill collection suggest that it was possible to combine attention to neoclassical fashionable design, with its emphasis on high waistlines and straight lines, with the continued wearing of pockets. 16 Visual evidence also supports the continued use of pockets.
53 The issue of propriety – what is appropriate to station – that informed judgements concerning women’s paraphernalia is addressed by Lord Kames as part of his examination of taste and, in particular, of the power of objects to attract the eye. 54 When he invited his friend, the bluestocking Elizabeth Montagu, to tell him what she thought about the science of ornament, she by no means shunned the principle of personal adornment but endeavoured to tie it to fitness and function, suggesting that if jewels appear to have some purpose, the wearer, whether male or female, will avoid the accusation of ostentation: It is certain that the great Artificer has conceal’d the useful under the beautiful.